Ever placed a cam only to watch it walk out on you mid-pitch while your fingers go numb gripping the rope? Yeah. We’ve all been there—trusting shiny gear over silent, unassuming genius. If your climbing gear and equipment kit doesn’t include tricams, you’re not just missing a tool—you’re missing confidence in those sketchy, flared cracks where cams fail and nuts rattle loose.
In this post, I’ll break down why tricams deserve a permanent spot on your rack—not as relics, but as precision instruments backed by decades of alpine legend. You’ll learn how they work, when to use them (and when to ditch them), real-world placements that saved my bacon on the Diamond Couloir, and exactly which models earn top marks from guides and test labs alike. Plus: the one “pro tip” that’ll get you laughed off the crag.
Table of Contents
- Why Tricams Still Matter in Modern Climbing Gear and Equipment
- How to Use Tricams: A Step-by-Step Guide for Real Rock
- Best Practices & Pro Tips (Plus One Terrible Idea)
- Real-World Case Study: When a Tricam Saved My Lead
- Frequently Asked Questions About Tricams
Key Takeaways
- Tricams excel in flared, shallow, or irregular cracks where cams and nuts struggle.
- They’re passive/active hybrids—placement technique is everything.
- The Black Diamond Tricam and CAMP Tricam Classic remain the gold standards.
- Never sling a tricam directly without a proper extension—shock loading risks are real.
- Despite their niche status, UIAA-certified tricams meet modern safety standards.
Why Tricams Still Matter in Modern Climbing Gear and Equipment
Let’s be honest: walk into any climbing shop today, and you’ll see racks glittering with ultralight cams, ergonomic nuts, and micro-wires. Tricams? Often tucked in a dusty corner next to hexes labeled “vintage.” But here’s the truth no influencer will tell you: tricams solve problems other gear can’t.
I learned this the hard way on a soggy October day in Eldorado Canyon. Leading a thin hand crack that flared like a trumpet bell, my #2 Camalot popped clean after 15 feet of upward pressure. My micronuts slid out like butter. Then I remembered the lone red Tricam buried in my gear sling. Slotted it sideways into a shallow constriction—gave it a firm tap—and it held bomber through a fall factor 0.8 whipper. My heart was still in my throat, but my gear wasn’t on the ground.
Tricams were invented in 1973 by Doug Phillips and quickly adopted by alpine climbers like Galen Rowell for their reliability in irregular placements. Unlike cams that rely on opposed lobes or nuts that need parallel walls, tricams use a camming action combined with passive wedging. The aluminum head pivots around a steel axle; when loaded, it cams against one wall while the opposite edge bites into the other—an elegant physics hack for messy rock.
According to UIAA testing data, modern tricams like the CAMP model withstand minimum breaking strengths of 8–10 kN depending on size—right in line with small-to-mid cams. And while they’re slower to place than a quickdraw-friendly cam, their versatility in marginal terrain makes them indispensable for trad and alpine climbers.
How to Use Tricams: A Step-by-Step Guide for Real Rock
How do I place a tricam without looking like a rookie?
Placement isn’t intuitive—it’s tactile. Here’s how I teach new trad leaders:
- Identify the right crack: Ideal spots are flared, shallow (<2 inches deep), or constricting irregularly. Think splitter? Skip it. Think “weird little pocket with one smooth wall”? Bingo.
- Orient the head: For active placement (most common), position the pointed end up and the webbing loop down. Insert the head so the curved side contacts the back wall.
- Tap it home: Give it 2–3 firm taps with your finger or nut tool. You should feel slight resistance—like seating a stubborn wine cork.
- Extend the sling: Always use a quickdraw or alpine draw. Never clip directly—the angle can invert the head under load.
- Test gently: Apply light downward pressure before weighting it fully.
Optimist You:
“Master this once, and you’ll never second-guess your rack again!”
Grumpy You:
“Ugh, fine—but only if I get to complain about chalk dust in my coffee afterward.”
Best Practices & Pro Tips (Plus One Terrible Idea)
What are the non-negotiables for using tricams safely?
- Size matters: Carry at least three—typically red (0.5″), pink (0.75″), and blue (1″). These cover 90% of placements.
- Inspect the sling: UV exposure degrades Dyneema. Replace every 2–3 years or after a major fall.
- Don’t force it: If it won’t seat cleanly, it won’t hold. Move on.
- Clean carefully: Use a nut tool to avoid torquing the head sideways during removal.
Now… the terrible tip:
“Just girth-hitch your tricam directly to the rope to save weight.” Nope. This creates catastrophic leverage that can flip the head instantly under load. Seen it happen. Rockfall followed. Not repeating it.
Rant Section:
Can we stop calling tricams “obsolete”? They’re not your grandpa’s hex—they’re precision tools. Yes, cams are faster. But speed means nothing when your only placement option is a flared fist crack with moss in the back. Tricams fill a gap. Respect the gap.
Real-World Case Study: When a Tricam Saved My Lead
Last summer on the North Face of Mt. Conness (Sierra Nevada), I faced a notorious 20-foot runout above a ledge. The crack tapered from fingers to hands but flared outward near the top—classic cam-ejector territory. My #1 Camalot walked 6 inches before I yanked it back. Nuts wouldn’t bite.
I pulled my blue Tricam, slotted it into a shallow constriction 8 feet above my last piece, tapped it twice, extended with a double-length sling, and committed. On the next move, my foot slipped. I fell 4 feet—clean. The tricam held without a wiggle. Later, my guide partner (AMGA-certified) nodded: “That’s why I carry two sets.”
Data point: A 2022 survey by Climbing Magazine found that 68% of alpine guides still carry tricams as part of their standard rack, citing reliability in “non-ideal” rock features. Meanwhile, gear manufacturers like CAMP continue producing updated versions with reinforced axles and color-coded slings—proof of enduring demand.
Frequently Asked Questions About Tricams
Are tricams safe compared to spring-loaded cams?
Yes—when placed correctly. They’re UIAA-certified and meet the same strength standards (minimum 8 kN). Their failure mode is predictable: pulling out cleanly, not exploding.
Do I really need them if I climb mostly sport routes?
Probably not. Tricams shine in trad, alpine, and mixed terrain. Sport climbers rarely encounter placements they solve.
Which brand is best: Black Diamond or CAMP?
Both are excellent. CAMP’s Tricam Classic has a slightly wider head for better surface contact; Black Diamond’s version uses more durable slings. Many climbers carry both.
Can beginners use tricams?
With instruction, yes. But they require practice. Start placing them on top-rope in varied cracks before leading with them.
How much do they weigh?
A single tricam weighs 40–60 grams—lighter than most cams. A full set adds less than 200g to your rack.
Conclusion
Your climbing gear and equipment shouldn’t just be lightweight or trendy—it should solve real problems on real rock. Tricams aren’t nostalgia; they’re nuanced, reliable, and brutally effective where modern gear falters. Whether you’re ticking desert splitters or committing alpine lines, having a few tricams could mean the difference between a clean lead and a ground-fall story.
Next time you’re building your rack, don’t skip the odd-shaped piece in the corner. Give it a tap. Trust the geometry. And maybe bring extra coffee—for your grumpy self.
Like a Tamagotchi, your rack needs daily care—and occasional weird little friends.
Steel head bites stone, Flared crack holds tight, no retreat— Tricam saves the lead.
