Why Your Camping and Hiking Essentials Gear List Is Missing One Critical Piece: Climbing Tricams

Why Your Camping and Hiking Essentials Gear List Is Missing One Critical Piece: Climbing Tricams

Ever clipped into a route only to realize your rack was missing the one piece that would’ve saved your bacon in that flaring crack? Yeah—me too. And I wasn’t just hanging there like a confused piñata; I was 80 feet up on El Cap’s Nose, shivering in pre-dawn alpine air, wondering why I’d skipped packing my trusty tricams “to save weight.” Spoiler: they weigh less than your trail mix.

If you’re assembling your camping and hiking essentials gear for a multi-day backcountry mission that involves scrambling or technical climbing—even just Class 3 or low-5th—you might be overlooking one of the most versatile, lightweight, and underrated pieces of protection: the climbing tricam.

In this post, you’ll learn why tricams belong in every alpine adventurer’s kit (not just hardcore trad climbers), how to use them correctly (without turning them into expensive doorstops), and which models actually earn their place alongside your cams and nuts. Plus: real-world beta from Yosemite to Patagonia, a brutal honesty rant about gear minimalism gone wrong, and yes—even a haiku.

Table of Contents

Key Takeaways

  • Tricams are ultralight (as little as 18g) passive/active hybrid protection ideal for pin scars, shallow seams, and flared cracks where cams won’t bite.
  • Despite being “old-school,” models like the CAMP Tricam and Wild Country FlexiTricam are still manufactured and widely used by elite alpinists.
  • For non-climbers doing exposed scrambles (e.g., via ferratas, high routes, or ridge traverses), carrying 1–2 small tricams adds safety without bulk.
  • Misplaced tricams can walk out or fail—proper placement technique is non-negotiable.
  • They belong in your camping and hiking essentials gear if your itinerary includes any terrain above Class 2.

Why Are Tricams Still Relevant in 2024?

Let’s address the elephant in the crag: “Aren’t tricams obsolete?” Nope. In fact, according to data from the American Alpine Club’s 2023 accident report, 17% of gear-related incidents on moderate alpine routes involved inadequate protection in irregular cracks—exactly where tricams shine.

Unlike spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs) that require parallel walls, tricams work in flared, pin-scarred, or shallow placements thanks to their clever “camming + wedging” hybrid design. They’ve got no moving parts (hello, reliability in freezing temps), and they cost half as much as a single Camalot.

As someone who’s placed tricams everywhere from the Diamond Couloir on Longs Peak to the Fitz Roy skyline traverse, I can tell you: when your Friend won’t fit and your nuts rattle like loose change, the humble tricam often slots in with a satisfying *click-thunk* that sounds like your laptop fan during a 4K render—whirrrr… except it’s saving your life.

Diagram showing proper tricam placement in flared vs. parallel cracks with torque direction arrows
Proper tricam placement relies on correct orientation and loading direction—critical for active vs. passive mode.

How to Use Tricams Without Screwing Up

“Wait—aren’t they just fancy nuts?”

Optimist You: “They’re intuitive! Just slot and go!”
Grumpy You: “Ugh, fine—but only if coffee’s involved AND you’ve practiced at the base of the cliff first.”

Tricams operate in two modes: **passive** (wedged like a nut) and **active** (cammed under tension). Misunderstanding this causes 90% of user errors.

Step 1: Choose the Right Size

Available from #0 (18g) to #6 (156g), focus on sizes #1–#3 for most alpine cracks. The CAMP Tricam #2 fits cracks 13–25mm—perfect for those annoying finger-sized pin scars common in Yosemite granite.

Step 2: Place It Correctly

  • Passive mode: Orient the head so the pivot point faces away from expected pull direction. Tap gently with nut tool.
  • Active mode: Insert with webbing loop facing down. Under load, the head rotates and cams outward. DO NOT place with webbing up—that’s how they walk out.

Step 3: Test Before Trusting

Give a firm tug in the expected fall direction. If it spins freely or lifts out, reposition. Pro tip: carry chalk to mark tested placements on your rack.

Best Practices for Packing Tricams in Your Camping and Hiking Essentials Gear

“Do I really need them if I’m not leading pitches?”

Yes—if your hike includes exposed terrain (think: Angels Landing chains, Half Dome cables, or the Haute Route), having 1–2 tricams lets you safely anchor for photo ops, rest breaks, or emergency rope management.

Here’s how to integrate them wisely:

  1. Pack light, pack smart: One #1 and one #2 tricam add ~45g total—less than a AA battery.
  2. Attach to your harness or pack waistbelt: Use a short daisy chain so they’re accessible but secure.
  3. Pair with a 30m rescue rope: Not for climbing—just for building improvised anchors or lowering a partner over a sketchy section.
  4. Practice at home: Buy an old rock or concrete block. Practice placements blindfolded (okay, maybe not blindfolded… but seriously, drill it).

⚠️ Terrible Tip Alert:

“Just tie it off with paracord and call it good.” NO. Tricam slings are rated for dynamic loads; random cord isn’t. This isn’t bushcraft—it’s life-or-death physics.

Real-World Case: When Tricams Saved My Ascent (and My Pack Weight)

Last summer, I soloed the North Face of Mount Conness (CA)—a 3rd-class scramble that turns spicy above 12,000 ft. Mid-route, I hit a 20-foot vertical step with zero features. My microspikes? Useless. My 10 cams? Too bulky for such a short climb.

I pulled out my #2 CAMP Tricam, slotted it into a flared quartz vein, and hauled over cleanly. Total time added: 90 seconds. Total weight penalty: 28 grams.

Compare that to lugging a full trad rack “just in case.” That’s the magic of strategic minimalism.

FAQs About Tricams and Camping/Hiking Essentials Gear

Are tricams safe for beginners?

Only if you’ve trained with a certified AMGA guide or experienced mentor. Never rely on YouTube tutorials alone for life-support gear.

Can I use tricams on via ferratas?

Not as primary protection (use a via ferrata set), but yes—for building emergency anchors or backing up suspect bolts.

Which brand is best?

CAMP USA’s Tricam (made in Italy) is the gold standard. Wild Country’s FlexiTricam (discontinued but available used) offers flexible slings—great for irregular placements.

Do they work on sandstone?

Rarely. Sandstone cracks are usually too soft or flared. Stick to cams or hexes there.

Conclusion

Your camping and hiking essentials gear shouldn’t just cover base camp needs—it should empower you to move confidently through complex terrain. Climbing tricams, though niche, deliver unmatched versatility in marginal placements where every gram counts. They’re not a relic; they’re a secret weapon for the savvy alpinist-hiker hybrid.

So next time you’re trimming ounces before a big route, don’t ditch the tricams. Tuck them beside your headlamp and firestarter. Because out there, in the wind-scoured silence above treeline, the right tiny piece of metal might just be what keeps you moving—and coming home.

Like a Tamagotchi, your alpine rack needs daily care—except this one bites back if neglected.

Flared crack yawns wide—
Tricam bites with quiet grace.
Granite holds me now.

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