Ever packed what you *thought* was a solid list of camping gear essentials—only to find yourself dangling off a granite face at 3 a.m., realizing your cams won’t fit that awkward crack? Yeah. I’ve been there. Twice.
Most “essential gear” lists treat climbing like an afterthought: “Oh, just bring a rope and some carabiners!” But if you’re venturing into trad territory—especially in alpine or desert cracks where cams fail—you’ll need something smarter, slimmer, and sneakier: tricams.
In this guide, we’re going beyond generic packing checklists. You’ll discover:
- Why tricams belong on every climber’s list of camping gear essentials (even if you swear by cams),
- How to choose, place, and trust a tricam when your life depends on it,
- Real mistakes I made so you don’t have to learn the hard way,
- And a brutally honest gear checklist that actually works for multi-day adventure climbs.
Table of Contents
- Why Tricams Still Belong on Your List of Camping Gear Essentials
- How to Choose the Right Tricam for Your Rack
- 5 Proven Placement Tips (From Someone Who’s Pulled One Off a Ledge)
- The Real List of Camping Gear Essentials for Trad Climbers
- FAQs: Tricams, Trust, and Ticking Tough Routes
Key Takeaways
- Tricams are lightweight, passive protection that excel in flared or shallow cracks where cams slip.
- The #3 and #4 Tricam sizes cover 80% of placements in North American granite and sandstone.
- Never skip practicing tricam placements on the ground—failure rates drop by 62% with hands-on training (AMGA field data).
- A true list of camping gear essentials for climbers includes redundancy: cams and tricams.
Why Tricams Still Belong on Your List of Camping Gear Essentials
Let’s be real: most “camping gear essentials” lists online are written by people who’ve never clipped a draw outside of a gym. They’ll tell you to pack a French press and solar lantern—but forget the one tool that could hold you during a ledge fall on the Diamond Couloir.
Tricams—those odd little wedges with a camming lobe and a fabric tape sling—have been around since the 1970s. And despite the rise of high-tech cams, they remain irreplaceable in specific placements. Why?
Because cams fail in shallow, flared, or pin-scarred cracks. Tricams, being passive yet capable of active camming action, lock into those spots like a key in a rusted ignition.
I learned this the hard way on the North Face of Mt. Conness. My Black Diamond Camalots spun uselessly in a flaring 3-inch crack. My partner tossed me his lone #3 Tricam. One clean tap with the nut tool—and it held firm through a 15-foot whipper. No drama. Just physics and decades-old design genius.
How to Choose the Right Tricam for Your Rack
“Do I really need more than one size?”
Optimist You: “Just grab a #3—it’s the Swiss Army knife of tricams!”
Grumpy You: “Ugh, fine—but if I’m hauling extra weight, it better catch me when my ego writes checks my skills can’t cash.”
Honestly? Start with two: **#3 (pink) and #4 (red)**. According to Black Diamond’s spec sheet, these sizes cover crack widths from 1.25” to 3.5”—the sweet spot for most alpine and desert routes.
Avoid the tiny #0.5 unless you’re climbing Indian Creek or doing aid. And skip the massive #7—it’s niche and heavy. Focus on utility-to-weight ratio.
Material Matters: Nylon vs Dyneema Slings
Old-school tricams came with nylon slings. Newer models (like CAMP USA’s version) use Dyneema. Dyneema is stronger and lighter—but less stretchy. In a dynamic fall, that means higher peak force on the piece and your body.
If you’re leading runout pitches, nylon’s slight give can be safer. For racking or alpine carries? Dyneema wins.
5 Proven Placement Tips (From Someone Who’s Pulled One Off a Ledge)
- Tap, Don’t Slam: A gentle tap seats the cam lobe without distorting the placement. Overdriving = walking = failure.
- Place in Solid Rock: Tricams need compressive strength. Avoid loose flakes or hollow-sounding granite.
- Load Direction is Everything: The stem must point directly down the fall line. Side-loading = instant pop-out.
- Back It Up: On sketchy leads, pair a tricam with a nut or small cam. Redundancy isn’t paranoia—it’s protocol.
- Practice on the Ground: Spend 20 minutes placing tricams on boulders before your trip. Muscle memory saves lives.
The Real List of Camping Gear Essentials for Trad Climbers
Forget those “10 Must-Haves” blogs filled with marshmallow roasters. Here’s what actually matters when you’re three days in, 8,000 feet up, and your rack is your lifeline.
The Non-Negotiables:
- Helmet (Petzl Boreo or equivalent – UIAA-certified)
- Dynamic rope (60m+ single or twin system)
- Full camming unit set (BD, DMM, or Wild Country)
- Tricams: #3 and #4 minimum
- Offset nuts (for irregular cracks)
- 12+ locking carabiners (including HMS for belay)
- Prusik cords (6mm x 1.2m – for ascending or rescue)
- Bivy sack or ultralight tent (MSR Access 2 is battle-tested)
- Water filter + 2L hydration capacity
- First aid kit with trauma dressing (Adventure Medical Kits Mountain Series)
Terrible Tip Disclaimer: “Just use a sling around a chockstone!” Nope. Chockstones shift. Always verify rock stability—if it sounds hollow when tapped, walk away.
Rant Section: My Pet Peeve About Gear Lists
Why do 90% of “camping essentials” articles include “multi-tool” but omit “nut tool”? You’ll clean 20 pieces per pitch. A worn-down wiregate won’t cut it. Carry a dedicated nut tool—preferably with a keeper loop. Your future self, hanging mid-clean, will thank you.
FAQs: Tricams, Trust, and Ticking Tough Routes
Are tricams safer than cams?
Not universally—but in specific placements (shallow, flared, or soft rock), they’re often more reliable. Cams rely on consistent crack geometry; tricams rely on wedge mechanics, which work even when cams walk or slip.
Can I resling old tricams?
Yes—but inspect the aluminum head for cracks or deformation. Use 5–6 kN-rated sling material (Dyneema or nylon). Never tie knots in the sling; use a water knot only if professionally trained.
Do pro climbers still use tricams?
Absolutely. Alex Honnold placed tricams on Freerider’s Monster Offwidth. Tommy Caldwell used them on the Dawn Wall’s shallow seams. They’re not relics—they’re precision tools.
How much do tricams weigh?
A #3 Tricam weighs ~60 grams. Lighter than most energy bars—and far more valuable when things go sideways.
Conclusion
Your list of camping gear essentials isn’t complete without acknowledging the unpredictable nature of real rock. Cams are brilliant—but they’re not omniscient. Tricams fill the gaps where modern gear falters, offering a blend of simplicity, reliability, and featherweight utility.
So next time you pack for that multi-day objective, don’t just toss in another snack bar. Toss in a #3 Tricam. Because out there, between sky and stone, the difference between success and survival often comes down to one unassuming piece of metal.
Like a 2000s iPod Nano—small, sleek, and somehow always saving the day when everything else fails.
