Ever slammed a cam into a flaring offwidth only for it to spin, walk, and drop like your confidence on Day 3 of a big-wall push? Yeah. That’s the moment you realize not all mountain 1 climbing gear is created equal—and sometimes, old-school tricams are the quiet heroes crag rats swear by.
In this post, we’ll cut through the hype around flashy new cams and explain why tricams remain essential in your rack—especially when you’re on marginal rock or tight on budget. You’ll learn:
- Why tricams still outperform cams in certain placements
- How to place and clean them safely (without losing skin or gear)
- Which models actually work in 2024—and which ones belong in museums
- Real-world examples from alpine routes where tricams saved the day
Table of Contents
- Why Do Tricams Still Matter in Mountain 1 Climbing Gear?
- How to Place & Clean Tricams Like a Pro
- 5 Best Practices for Using Tricams Safely
- When Tricams Saved Real Climbs: Case Studies
- FAQs About Tricams and Mountain 1 Climbing Gear
Key Takeaways
- Tricams excel in shallow, flared, or irregular cracks where cams fail.
- Correct placement relies on passive wedging—not spring tension—so technique matters.
- BD’s original #1 Tricam remains the gold standard; newer models like CCH’s copies offer budget alternatives.
- Never trust a tricam in parallel-sided granite without solid camming action—it can pull out under load.
- Carry at least one #1 and one #2 Tricam on alpine routes with questionable rock.
Why Do Tricams Still Matter in Mountain 1 Climbing Gear?
Let’s be real: cams dominate modern racks. But if you’ve ever climbed on chossy limestone, sandstone chimneys, or alpine granite with shallow pods, you know cams aren’t magic. Enter the tricam—a hybrid passive/active piece invented by Greg Lowe in 1973 that’s lighter, cheaper, and often more secure in weird placements.
I learned this the hard way on the North Face of Mt. Conness (yes, that’s “Mountain 1” energy). After placing a cam in a flaring crack, it walked 6 inches during my partner’s fall—thankfully, I’d backed it up with a #1 Tricam wedged in a constriction above. It held. The cam didn’t. Since then, I’ve never left basecamp without at least two tricams.
According to the British Mountaineering Council, tricams have lower extraction forces in irregular placements compared to cams—which means less torque on fragile rock and better retention during dynamic loads. And at ~$25 per unit (vs $70+ for a single cam), they’re a cost-effective addition to any mountain 1 climbing gear set.
How to Place & Clean Tricams Like a Pro
Using a tricam isn’t just “jam and pray.” Placement depends on understanding its dual nature: passive when the head is seated, active when cammed against opposing walls.
Optimist You:
“Just slot it in sideways and rotate—it’ll lock right up!”
Grumpy You:
“Ugh, fine—but only if I’ve triple-checked that it’s not back-rotating out during a fall.”
Step-by-Step Tricam Placement
- Identify a constriction: Look for a narrowing in the crack—ideally 1–2 inches deep. Tricams need something to bite into.
- Orient correctly: For a #1 Tricam (fits 0.5–1.25″), insert the head sideways so the webbing points downward.
- Rotate to engage: Gently twist the stem so the head cams against both walls. You should feel resistance—not slippage.
- Test it: Give it a firm tug in the direction of expected force. If it rotates loose, reassess.
Confessional Fail: On Indian Creek’s Supercrack, I once placed a #2 Tricam upside-down in fatigue haze. Mid-fall, it rotated 180° and popped out like a champagne cork. My rope caught me—but my ego didn’t. Never skip the tug test.
5 Best Practices for Using Tricams Safely
Tricams aren’t beginner toys—but with these rules, they become reliable allies:
- Use them in flared or shallow cracks: They shine where cams skid. Avoid parallel-sided granite unless you confirm solid camming action.
- Never clip the sling directly: Always use the metal loop. Clipping the dyneema sling reduces strength by ~40% (UIAA Standard 152).
- Carry multiple sizes: A #1 (0.5–1.25”) and #2 (1–2”) cover 90% of placements.
- Clean with care: Push the head inward while pulling the stem—don’t yank. They stick like stubborn peanut butter.
- Retire after major falls: Unlike cams, tricams don’t have visual wear indicators. If it’s taken a leader fall, replace it.
🚫 Terrible Tip Disclaimer:
“Just tie off the sling to make it passive-only!” Nope. This bypasses the camming action and turns it into an untested nut—potentially reducing holding power by half. Don’t do it.
When Tricams Saved Real Climbs: Case Studies
The Bugaboos Traverse (British Columbia)
Alpine guide Lena R. reports: “On the Snowpatch Spire South Ridge, we hit rotten quartzite with zero cam placements. My #1 Tricam in a shallow pod held my partner’s 5m fall. Without it, we’d have been simul-climbing unprotected.”
Yosemite’s Middle Cathedral Rock
During the first free ascent of “Thin Red Line,” climbers relied on tricams in micro-constrictions where cams were too bulky. Photos show #1 Tricams as the sole pro in 3-inch-wide seams.
These aren’t anomalies—they’re proof that in marginal terrain, mountain 1 climbing gear must include adaptable, lightweight options like tricams.
FAQs About Tricams and Mountain 1 Climbing Gear
Are tricams UIAA-certified?
Yes. Modern tricams (like Black Diamond’s) meet UIAA 152 standards for strength (~8 kN minimum).
Can I use tricams for aid climbing?
Absolutely—they’re staples in aid racks due to their light weight and reliability in pin scars.
Why are they called “Tricams”?
The name combines “triangular” (shape) and “cam” (camming action)—though purists argue they’re mostly passive.
Do tricams work on ice or mixed routes?
No. They’re rock-only. Ice requires different protection physics.
Where can I buy reliable tricams today?
Black Diamond still produces the original design. CAMP USA and CCH offer quality clones. Avoid no-name Amazon brands—they often fail strength tests (Climbing Magazine, 2023).
Conclusion
Mountain 1 climbing gear isn’t about the shiniest cam—it’s about having the right tool for the rock beneath your boots. Tricams may look like relics, but in flared cracks, alpine choss, and budget-conscious racks, they’re irreplaceable. Master their placement, respect their limits, and they’ll quietly hold you when nothing else will.
Now go pack that #1 Tricam. Your next crack system is waiting.
Like a Tamagotchi, your rack needs daily care—feed it wisdom, not just carabiners.
