Ever clipped into a piece of gear only to hear that sickening ping as it pops out mid-ascent—20 feet up a white oak, sweat stinging your eyes, heart doing the cha-cha? Yeah. I’ve been there. And it wasn’t my harness that failed… it was my ignorance about how to use tree climbing gear correctly—especially finicky little devils like tricams.
If you’re scaling hardwoods for arborist work, wildlife research, or weekend canopy yoga (hey, no judgment), this guide cuts through the fluff. You’ll learn exactly how tricams function in arboreal terrain, why most climbers misuse them, and the one non-negotiable safety step 73% skip (per ISA 2023 field data). No marketing jargon. Just rope burns, real talk, and gear wisdom forged 60 feet off the ground.
Table of Contents
- Why Tree Climbing Gear Isn’t Rock Climbing Gear
- Step-by-Step: How to Place and Remove Tricams in Trees
- 5 Pro Tips for Using Tricams Without Dying
- Real-World Case Study: The Oak Fiasco of 2022
- FAQ: How to Use Tree Climbing Gear
Key Takeaways
- Tricams aren’t “set-and-forget”—they require active placement and removal technique unique to bark texture and limb geometry.
- Tree climbing demands gear rated for dynamic loads and organic surfaces; rock climbing cams often fail catastrophically in trees.
- Always back up your primary anchor with a secondary system (e.g., friction hitch) when using passive protection like tricams.
- Bark damage isn’t just bad for trees—it compromises your anchor. Inspect every placement zone for rot, moss, or loose cambium.
- Practice ground-level placements before trusting your life to a #3 Tricam in a slippery beech crotch.
Why Tree Climbing Gear Isn’t Rock Climimbing Gear
Let’s get one myth shattered right now: rock climbing gear ≠ tree climbing gear. I learned this the hard way during a storm-delayed climb in Oregon’s Coast Range. My trusty Black Diamond Camalot—bulletproof on granite—slid clean out of a Douglas fir crotch like butter off a hot pan. Why? Trees move. They flex. Their surfaces are irregular, wet, and alive.
Unlike static rock, wood expands, contracts, and sways in wind. Passive protection like tricams (which rely on camming action between two surfaces) must accommodate organic variability. According to the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), over 40% of non-fatal climbing incidents in arboriculture stem from improper gear selection—not user error alone.

That’s why specialized tree-rated tricams—like those from DMM or Yates—feature wider heads, textured surfaces for bark grip, and lower trigger forces. They’re engineered for the squish, not the smash.
Step-by-Step: How to Place and Remove Tricams in Trees
How do I place a tricam securely in a tree fork?
- Inspect the crotch: Check for deadwood, rot, or excessive moss. Tap limbs—if they sound hollow, walk away.
- Orient the tricam: Position the head so the cam lobe faces the direction of pull (usually downward along your climbing line).
- Seat it deep: Push the tricam fully into the crotch until the stem sits flush. Give it a firm yank test—it shouldn’t rotate or shift.
- Back it up: Tie a Prusik or Distel hitch below the tricam as a redundant safety.
How do I remove a stuck tricam without dropping it?
Pulling straight down often jams it tighter. Instead:
- Use a lightweight retrieval tool (or a stick) to lift the cam lobe upward while gently wiggling the stem side-to-side.
- If it’s truly wedged, ascend slightly to change the angle of pull—sometimes a 10° shift is all it takes.
Optimist You: “Just wiggle it free!”
Grumpy You: “Ugh, fine—but only if I’ve got my emergency peanut butter sandwich and someone’s spotting me.”
5 Pro Tips for Using Tricams Without Dying
- Size matters—literally: #1–#3 tricams work best in tree crotches under 4 inches wide. Anything larger? Switch to a cambium saver or limb anchor.
- Wet bark = death trap: Rain reduces friction by up to 60% (University of British Columbia Forestry Dept, 2021). Wrap placements with tree tape for extra grip.
- Never trust a single point: Always run your climbing rope through a redirect pulley anchored separately from your tricam.
- Retire after impact: If your tricam catches a fall—even a minor one—retire it. Micro-fractures are invisible but lethal.
- Practice on the ground first: Spend 20 minutes placing/removing tricams on a log before heading aloft. Muscle memory saves lives.
The Terrible Tip You Should Ignore
“Just hammer it in with a rock if it’s loose.” NO. Hitting aluminum gear with force deforms critical stress points. It also damages bark and violates ISA Best Management Practices. Don’t be that guy.
Real-World Case Study: The Oak Fiasco of 2022
Last spring, I was hired to install owl boxes in a heritage white oak in central Texas. Mid-climb, my primary tricam popped during a limb-sway gust. Thanks to my backup Distel hitch, I dangled safely—but my rigging kit dropped 40 feet into a creek.
Post-incident analysis revealed two failures:
- I’d placed the tricam in a crotch with hidden internal rot (visible only via resistograph scan).
- I’d skipped the wiggle-test because “it felt solid.”
The lesson? Trust nothing. Test everything. And always—always—carry a spare ascender.
This isn’t just anecdotal. The Tree Worker Safety Coalition reports that 68% of gear-related failures involve skipped pre-use checks. Don’t become a statistic.
FAQ: How to Use Tree Climbing Gear
Can I use rock climbing tricams for tree climbing?
Technically yes—but not safely. Rock tricams lack bark-specific engineering (e.g., wider heads, softer alloys). Stick to gear certified by ANSI Z133.1 or EN 360 for arboriculture.
How do I know if a tricam is seated correctly?
Give it three sharp tugs in the expected load direction. If it shifts more than 2mm or rotates, reseat it. When in doubt, back it up.
Are tricams better than cams for tree climbing?
In narrow crotches (<3”), yes—tricams offer superior passive hold without moving parts to jam. But for wide forks, mechanical cams or friction savers win.
What’s the weight limit for tree-rated tricams?
Most support 5–8 kN (1,125–1,800 lbs) when properly placed—plenty for a climber plus gear. Always check manufacturer specs; DMM’s Tree Tricam, for example, is rated to 7 kN.
Conclusion
Knowing how to use tree climbing gear—especially nuanced tools like tricams—isn’t just about reaching the canopy. It’s about coming down in one piece, protecting the tree, and respecting the craft. Whether you’re a hobbyist or pro, treat every placement like your life depends on it… because it might.
So next time you’re 30 feet up, sweating through your helmet strap, remember: slow placements, double checks, and never skip the backup. Your future self—and that ancient oak—will thank you.
Like a Razor scooter in 2003, your climbing skills look cool only if you don’t eat pavement.


