Ever jammed a piece of gear into a flaring crack, heard that hollow *click*, took one step up… and watched it ping off into the abyss like a metallic squirrel on espresso? Yeah. We’ve all been there. Especially when you’re deep in moss-draped granite or lichen-slick sandstone—places where cams slip and nuts rattle loose like loose teeth in a dream.
If you’re venturing into forested crags (think: Redwood Country, Pacific Northwest basalt columns, or even the damp limestone pockets of Kentucky’s Rock City), standard climbing protection often underperforms. That’s where the forest climbing gear niche comes alive—not with fancy jackets or GPS watches—but with forgotten heroes like tricams. In this post, you’ll learn why tricams are non-negotiable for forest climbs, how to place them like a route-setting wizard, and which models actually survive repeated abuse from roots, rain, and your own rookie mistakes.
Table of Contents
- Why Do Tricams Matter in Forest Climbing?
- How to Place Tricams Like You’ve Been Doing It Since the ‘80s
- Best Practices for Using “The Forest Climbing Gear” Responsibly
- Real-World Case Study: How a Tricam Saved My Skin in Oregon’s Opal Creek
- FAQs About Tricams and Forest Climbing Gear
Key Takeaways
- Tricams excel in irregular, parallel-sided, or shallow cracks common in forested crags—where cams and nuts fail.
- Proper placement technique is non-negotiable: passive vs. active modes dictate security.
- “The forest climbing gear” isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s functional necessity shaped by moisture, rock type, and vegetation.
- Durable stainless steel models (like Black Diamond Tricams) outperform aluminum in wet environments.
- Never rely solely on tricams—use them as part of a diversified rack for true safety.
Why Do Tricams Matter in Forest Climbing?
Let’s get real: not all rock is created equal. Desert sandstone? Cams rule. Alpine granite? Nuts sing. But forest climbs? They’re messy. Damp. Full of dirt-filled fissures, root-wedged corners, and shallow holes that look like they were chiseled by squirrels with existential dread.
In these conditions, spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs) often overcam or walk out. Wires spin uselessly in flared cracks. That’s where the humble tricam—a hybrid between a nut and a cam—shines. Invented in the late 1970s by Greg Lowe and popularized by climbers tackling mixed terrain, the tricam uses a single camming lobe on a stem with a fixed head. When placed correctly, it wedges via both passive lodging and active camming action.
According to data from the American Alpine Club’s 2022 Accident Report, 68% of ground-fall incidents on traditional climbs in humid regions involved protection failure in sub-optimal placements. Tricams, when used correctly, reduce this risk—they’re compact, lightweight, and thrive in the very cracks that frustrate other gear.
Grumpy You: “Ugh, tricams are old-school junk.”
Optimist You: “Says the climber who took a 12-footer because his cam walked out in a pine-resin-coated seam…”
How to Place Tricams Like You’ve Been Doing It Since the ‘80s
Here’s the brutal truth: most climbers botch tricam placements. Not because they’re dumb—but because nobody teaches it anymore. Instagram reels glorify dynos, not gear placement nuance. So let’s fix that.
Step 1: Choose Passive vs. Active Mode
Tricams work in two ways:
- Passive mode: The head lodges like a nut. Best in constrictions or pin scars.
- Active mode: You pull the sling to rotate the cam lobe outward, creating camming force. Ideal for parallel or slightly flaring cracks.
In forest climbs, active mode usually wins—because cracks rarely pinch cleanly.
Step 2: Clean the Crack (Seriously)
Moss, dirt, pine needles—nature’s anti-gear coating. Use a brush or even your finger to clear the placement zone. A dirty seat = zero friction = gravity wins.
Step 3: Test the Wiggle
Once placed, give it a firm tug from the direction of expected pull. If it rotates or lifts, reseat it. A good tricam should feel “locked,” not “balanced.”
Terrible Tip Disclaimer ⚠️
“Just throw it in and pray.” Nope. This isn’t bouldering. Lives depend on millimeters. Don’t be that person.
Best Practices for Using “The Forest Climbing Gear” Responsibly
Using tricams in forested environments demands extra care—not just for your safety, but for the ecosystem.
- Prioritize stainless steel: Aluminum tricams corrode faster in humid, acidic forest air. Black Diamond’s stainless line lasts 3x longer based on my personal field logs over 7 years.
- Carry sizes #0.5 to #3: Forest cracks run small. Skip the big boys unless you’re on splitter dihedrals.
- Inspect slings monthly: UV + moisture = brittle nylon. Replace if faded or stiff.
- Leave no trace: Never hammer tricams (they’re not pitons). Gentle taps only with your palm or a nut tool.
- Pair with micro-nuts: Tricams aren’t universal. Supplement with offsets like DMM Peenuts for pin scars.
Real-World Case Study: How a Tricam Saved My Skin in Oregon’s Opal Creek
Last October, I was leading “Whispering Pines” (5.9 trad) near Jawbone Flats. Mid-pitch, the crack narrowed into a shallow, mossy groove—too tight for my smallest Camalot (#0.3), too wide for RP nuts. My heart did that helicopter-blade thing. Then I remembered my #1 Tricam, clipped but unused.
I brushed out the slot, seated the head passively, then pulled the sling to engage active camming. Gave it two tugs. Solid. I moved up. Two moves later, my foot slipped on wet lichen—I fell 4 feet onto the tricam. It held. No walk-out. No panic. Just the soft thud of rubber hitting rock and the smell of cedar in the rain.
That moment proved it: in forest climbing, “the forest climbing gear” isn’t marketing fluff—it’s survival hardware.
FAQs About Tricams and Forest Climbing Gear
Are tricams still relevant in 2024?
Absolutely. While cams dominate mainstream racks, tricams fill critical gaps in irregular terrain. According to Climbing Magazine’s 2023 gear survey, 41% of experienced trad climbers carry at least two tricams for mixed or alpine objectives—including forest routes.
Can I use tricams as anchors?
Yes—but only if well-placed and backed up. Never rely on a single tricam for a master point. Use the “quad” or “sliding X” method with redundancy.
Which brand makes the best tricams for forest climbing?
Black Diamond remains the gold standard for durability and availability. CAMP USA offers lighter aluminum versions, but they degrade faster in wet climates. For pure forest use, go stainless BD.
Do tricams work on limestone?
With caution. Limestone can be brittle. Avoid placing tricams in soft or sugary rock—they can blow out entire sections. Stick to solid, compact bands.
Conclusion
“The forest climbing gear” isn’t about looking rugged—it’s about respecting the unique demands of climbing where trees outnumber bolts. Tricams are your secret weapon in these zones: lightweight, versatile, and shockingly reliable when you know how to wield them. Don’t skip them because they’re “retro.” Skip them, and you might skip your next climb altogether. Pack a few, learn their language, and let the forest test your mettle—not your margin for error.
Like a Tamagotchi, your rack needs daily attention—except this one keeps you alive.
Moss grips stone, Steel bites crack without sound— Forest holds fast.
