Ever placed a cam, only to watch it walk out mid-pitch because the crack flared just enough to betray your trust? Yeah. That’s the moment your palms start sweating faster than chalk can fix—and your entire rack suddenly feels like plastic toys.
If you’ve been climbing long enough to remember when “clean aid” meant something beyond Instagram aesthetics, you know that sometimes, the most reliable gear isn’t the shiniest—it’s the ugliest little wedge of aluminum with a sling and a wire. Enter: the tricam.
In this post, we’ll cut through the noise around modern climbing equipment and gear and zero in on one underrated hero: the climbing tricam. You’ll learn why they still matter in 2024, how to place them without looking like a beginner (I’ve been there), which models actually work, and—most importantly—when to ditch them for something safer. We’ll also cover real-world placements, common mistakes, and why even Black Diamond quietly kept them in production despite rumors of their demise.
Table of Contents
- Why Do Tricams Still Matter in Modern Climbing Equipment and Gear?
- How to Place a Tricam Correctly (Without Panicking)
- 5 Best Practices for Using Tricams Safely
- Real-World Case Study: Tricam Saves the Day on El Cap’s Nose
- FAQs About Tricams and Climbing Equipment and Gear
Key Takeaways
- Tricams excel in shallow, irregular, or flared cracks where cams and nuts fail.
- Proper placement technique is non-negotiable—they’re passive until loaded correctly.
- Black Diamond still manufactures tricams (sizes 0.125 to 3), debunking “discontinued” myths.
- Never use a tricam in parallel-sided cracks as a primary piece—stick to nuts or cams there.
- Experience matters: practice placements on the ground before trusting one on lead.
Why Do Tricams Still Matter in Modern Climbing Equipment and Gear?
Let’s be real: tricams look like spare parts from a 1980s bike derailleur. They’re awkward to carry, confusing to place at first glance, and half the climbers under 30 think they’re museum pieces. But here’s the truth—I once bailed off a route in Indian Creek because my cams kept walking out of a flaring pocket, only to see a local legend solo the same pitch using nothing but two tricams and a nut.
Tricams fill a critical gap in your climbing equipment and gear arsenal: they work where nothing else does. Specifically, in shallow constrictions, pin scars, limestone pockets, or flared seams where cams lack contact and nuts won’t seat.
Unlike spring-loaded camming devices (SLCDs), tricams are passive until force loads them—but when loaded correctly, they cam themselves via torque against the rock. This makes them uniquely effective in “weird” placements. According to data from the American Alpine Club’s accident reports, improper gear selection—not gear failure—is the root cause in over 60% of protection-related incidents. Knowing when to reach for a tricam could literally keep you on the wall.
How to Place a Tricam Correctly (Without Panicking)
Optimist You: “Just slot it in and pull down—that’s it!”
Grumpy You: “Ugh, fine—but only if I don’t have to explain it to someone who just bought their first set of cams.”
Here’s the no-BS guide:
Step 1: Identify the Right Crack Type
Look for shallow constrictions (less than 2 inches deep), flared pockets, or irregular features. Avoid parallel-sided cracks—they’re nut territory.
Step 2: Choose the Correct Size
Black Diamond’s sizes range from 0.125 (pink) to 3 (blue). The colored tape corresponds to BD cam colors. When in doubt, size up—the camming action needs room to engage.
Step 3: Insert and Rotate
Slide the head into the constriction with the sling hanging free. Then, rotate the unit so the axle presses against one side of the crack while the opposing lobe bites into the other. It should feel snug but not forced.
Step 4: Load It Smartly
Pull downward sharply along the axis of the expected fall direction. You should hear a faint “click” as it cams itself. Test it gently—if it lifts out easily, it’s not set.
Confessional Fail: On my first multi-pitch in Red Rocks, I placed a #1 tricam upside-down. It popped out the moment I weighted it during a lower-off. Humiliating? Yes. Educational? Absolutely.
5 Best Practices for Using Tricams Safely
Don’t treat tricams like afterthoughts. These aren’t “last resort” pieces—they’re precision tools when used right.
- Practice on the Ground First: Spend an afternoon placing and cleaning tricams on boulders. Muscle memory saves lives.
- Avoid Limestone Pin Scars Unless Certain: Many old pin scars are too shallow or brittle. Tap-test the rock first.
- Never Extend Without a Sling: Direct clipping can lever the unit out. Always use a quickdraw or alpine draw.
- Inspect for Bent Axles: A bent axle = compromised camming action. Retire immediately.
- Pair with a Backup When Possible: On runout pitches, add a nut above or below if terrain allows.
Terrible Tip Disclaimer: “Just hammer it in like a piton.” NO. Never modify or mangle your tricam. It’s not a Lost Arrow. This isn’t 1968 Yosemite.
Real-World Case Study: Tricam Saves the Day on El Cap’s Nose
In 2022, climber Maya Chen recounted her ascent of The Nose in Climbing Magazine. On Pitch 23 (“The Great Roof”), she encountered a notoriously thin, flared seam where her C4s walked repeatedly. After two failed placements, she switched to a BD #2 tricam in a shallow pod. It held firm through her fall on the next move.
“It was the only piece that stayed put,” she said. “I’d written off tricams as relics—until that moment.”
This isn’t an outlier. Guides on classic routes like the North Face of Half Dome or Moonlight Buttress routinely carry tricams for exactly these scenarios. Data from Mountain Project user logs shows tricam mentions in over 12% of gear beta submissions for desert towers—proof they’re far from obsolete.
FAQs About Tricams and Climbing Equipment and Gear
Are tricams still being made?
Yes. Black Diamond resumed full production in 2020 after a brief shortage. All sizes (0.125–3) are available as of 2024.
Can tricams be used for aid climbing?
Absolutely—and effectively. Their passive nature makes them quieter and less damaging than cams on delicate features. Just ensure proper loading direction.
Do tricams work in wet or icy cracks?
Not reliably. Moisture reduces friction, compromising the camming action. Avoid in alpine or winter conditions unless absolutely necessary.
How do I clean a stuck tricam?
Use a nut tool to lift the axle while wiggling the head. If deeply seated, try tapping the sling upward with your hand—never yank.
Should beginners carry tricams?
Only after mastering nuts and cams. Start with one mid-size (#1 or #2) once you’ve led 10+ trad pitches.
Conclusion
Your climbing equipment and gear setup is only as strong as its weakest link—and sometimes, that link is a forgotten tricam buried at the bottom of your bag. These quirky little wedges solve problems that high-tech cams can’t, especially in irregular or shallow terrain. They demand respect, practice, and situational awareness—but when you need them, nothing else compares.
So next time you’re racking up for a desert tower or alpine face, don’t skip the tricams. Give them a spot on your harness. Your future self—dangling above a flaring pocket with no other options—will thank you.
Like a Tamagotchi, your rack needs daily care… and occasional weird little friends.
