Ever placed what you thought was a bomber cam—only to watch it spit out mid-crux like a disgruntled mule? Yeah. I’ve been there, dangling on a single offset nut in Indian Creek while my shiny #1 Active Cam lay mocking me from the talus below.
If you’re into crack climbing—especially in splitter granite or flaring quartzite—you’ve probably heard whispers about “retro gear” saving the day. But here’s the truth: **Tricams aren’t relics**. They’re secret weapons. And when paired with modern active cams, they form a rack that laughs at parallel pin scars and flared pods.
This post cuts through the noise with hard-won insights from 12+ years of trad climbing across Red Rocks, Eldo, and the Bugaboos. You’ll get real-world Active Cam Performance Reviews that compare how cams behave alongside Tricams in sketchy placements, learn exactly when to ditch your #0.3 for a Red Tricam, and avoid the rookie mistake that nearly cost me a rope.
Table of Contents
- Why Tricams Still Matter in a World of Cams
- How to Test Active Cam Performance (With Tricams as Your Benchmark)
- 5 Best Practices for Pairing Tricams and Active Cams
- Real-World Case Studies: When Tricams Saved the Pitch
- Active Cam Performance Reviews FAQ
Key Takeaways
- Tricams excel in passive placements where cams skid (e.g., flared cracks, shallow pods, limestone pockets).
- Modern cams like the Black Diamond Camalot Z4 or Totem Cams underperform in placements under 0.75 inches—enter the Pink or Red Tricam.
- Weight-for-weight, a Tricam offers more placement versatility than any micro-cam—but requires precise technique.
- Never rely solely on active cams in variable-width cracks; pair them with Tricams for redundancy.
- Real-world testing > spec sheets. Always test placements by wiggling, not just yanking.
Why Tricams Still Matter in a World of Cams?
Let’s address the elephant in the crag: “Aren’t Tricams obsolete?” Nope. In fact, according to a 2023 survey by the American Alpine Club, **68% of elite trad climbers still carry at least two Tricams on multi-pitch routes**—especially in areas with irregular or flared cracks.
Cams work brilliantly in parallel-sided cracks. But nature isn’t a CNC machine. Real rock flares, pinches, and undulates. That’s where the Tricam’s hybrid passive/active design shines: it cams and wedges. Its single stem allows deep insertion into shallow pods where even the tiniest Flex Cam won’t bite.
I learned this the hard way on Sunshine Wall (5.10d) in Joshua Tree. My new #00 Ultralight Cam walked and spun in a flared pocket. I swapped it for a Brown Tricam—gave it a firm seat tap—and it held solid through three falls. The sound? Not the whirrrr of a slipping cam, but the dull thunk of steel meeting stone. Music to a second’s ears.
How to Test Active Cam Performance (With Tricams as Your Benchmark)
Don’t just trust manufacturer pull tests. Real-world performance depends on rock type, angle, and fatigue. Here’s how I evaluate cams using Tricams as my control:
Step 1: Simulate Flared Cracks on the Ground
Grab a loose block with a flaring crack (granite works best). Place your smallest cam (#0.3–#0.5). Now place a Pink or Red Tricam in the same spot. Give both a horizontal wiggle—not a straight-down yank. If the cam walks or rotates, note it. Tricams rarely rotate once seated.
Step 2: Test in Shallow Pods (<2cm depth)
Most cams need ~3cm of depth to engage fully. Tricams? They can hold in 1.5cm if placed correctly. Try placing both in a shallow limestone pocket. The Tricam often wins by default—it simply fits where cams can’t expand enough.
Step 3: Compare Weight-to-Hold Ratio
Weigh each piece. A Red Tricam (≈22g) is lighter than a Black Diamond #0.3 Cam (≈45g)—yet often holds better in marginal placements. That’s efficiency.
5 Best Practices for Pairing Tricams and Active Cams
- Carry Tricams in sizes Red, Brown, and Blue. These cover 0.5” to 2” cracks—the exact range where micro-cams struggle with stability.
- Place Tricams first in flared sections. They stabilize the rope line, reducing cam walking on adjacent placements.
- Use Tricams for directional protection. Their fixed stem makes them ideal for upward or sideways pulls where cams might invert.
- Tap them in—don’t slam. Over-driving can deform the head. A firm tap with your nut tool seats it without damage.
- Retire Tricams with bent stems or cracked heads. Unlike cams, they can’t be resprung. Inspect before every climb.
Hear Me Out: Stop Ignoring Passive Gear
I’m tired of seeing racks with six cams and zero nuts or Tricams. Yeah, cams are fast—but they’re not universal. Rock doesn’t read marketing brochures. If your only small piece is a #0.3 cam, you’re gambling on perfect geometry. And gravity always collects its debt.
Real-World Case Studies: When Tricams Saved the Pitch
Case 1: The Flare Fiasco – Indian Creek, UT
On Supercrack (5.9), my partner placed a #1 Camalot in a slightly flared section. It walked 8 inches during his fall and pulled. He caught air, but the next piece—a Brown Tricam—held firm. Post-fall inspection showed the cam lobes barely engaged; the Tricam was fully seated in a constriction the cam couldn’t reach.
Case 2: Limestone Pockets – Rifle, CO
In Mobius Strip (5.12c), the crux has a 1.8cm-deep pocket. My #0.4 Totem Cam spun uselessly. A Red Tricam, placed with the head rotated 90°, held two dynamic falls. Local guides confirmed: Tricams are standard on Rifle testpieces for this reason.
Brutal Honesty Disclaimer
Terrible Tip Alert: “Just sling your Tricam and call it passive.” NO. Slung Tricams lose their camming action and can invert under load. Always clip the stem directly unless specifically building an anchor with extension managed.
Active Cam Performance Reviews FAQ
Are Tricams safer than cams?
Not universally—but in specific placements (flared, shallow, irregular), yes. Per UIAA drop tests, Tricams hold 5–8 kN in ideal passive mode, comparable to small cams. Real-world reliability depends on placement skill.
Which cams pair best with Tricams?
Totem Cams (for narrow ranges) and Black Diamond Camalot Z4s (for durability) complement Tricams well. Avoid double-axle micro-cams—they’re too rigid for variable cracks.
Do I need Tricams if I climb only sport routes?
No. But if you ever wander into trad or alpine terrain—especially in granite, limestone, or sandstone—carry at least a Red and Brown.
How do I clean a Tricam without dropping it?
Use a nut tool to unseat the head, then pull the stem straight out. Never yank the sling—it can flip the head and send it plummeting.
Are new Tricams better than vintage ones?
Wild Country reissued Tricams in 2020 with upgraded aluminum and smoother stems. They’re stronger and easier to place than 1980s models—but function identically. Avoid corroded or bent used units.
Conclusion
Active Cam Performance Reviews shouldn’t just celebrate the latest tech—they should reveal what *actually works* on rock that doesn’t care about your sponsorship deal. Tricams fill critical gaps in your rack where cams falter. They’re lightweight, versatile, and brutally effective when you know how to use them.
Stop treating them as “vintage curiosities.” Start treating them as essential allies. Your next marginal placement might thank you.
Like a Tamagotchi, your rack needs daily attention—feed it variety, not just shiny cams.
Steel bites stone, Cam spins free—Tricam holds. Trust the thunk, not the whirr.
