Ever dropped your last piece of pro 40 feet up a wet crack, heart hammering like it’s trying to escape your chest? Yeah. That’s the moment you realize your “training” gear isn’t just padding—it’s your lifeline.
This post cuts through the fluff to focus on one underappreciated hero of rock climbing training gear: the humble tricam. We’ll explore why they matter for skill development, how to train with them effectively, and which models actually earn their weight on your harness—not just collect chalk dust in your garage.
You’ll learn:
- Why tricams are foundational for crack-climbing mastery
- How to integrate them into deliberate, progression-focused training
- Real-world examples of routes where tricams saved the send
- Which “rock climbing training gear” claims are marketing hype vs. hard-won truth
Table of Contents
- Key Takeaways
- Why Tricams Still Matter in Modern Rock Climbing Training Gear
- How to Train Effectively with Tricams: A Step-by-Step Guide
- Best Practices for Using Tricams in Training
- Real-World Examples: When Tricams Made the Difference
- FAQs About Tricams and Rock Climbing Training Gear
Key Takeaways
- Tricams excel in shallow, parallel-sided, or flaring cracks where camming devices fail.
- Training with tricams builds route-reading, placement intuition, and mental resilience.
- The CCH (Camp) #0.5 and #1 sizes are the most versatile for beginner-to-intermediate crack systems.
- Never rely solely on passive pro without backup—especially during high-consequence training sessions.
- Tricams aren’t “old-school”—they’re essential problem-solving tools still used on testpieces like The Nose and Indian Creek classics.
Why Tricams Still Matter in Modern Rock Climbing Training Gear
Let’s be real: when most climbers think “rock climbing training gear,” they picture hangboards, campus rungs, or fancy force plates—not bent aluminum with a pink sling. But here’s the truth no gym bro wants to admit: if you can’t place clean pro on real stone, all that finger strength means squat when the ground disappears beneath you.
I learned this the hard way on a cold October morning in Joshua Tree. I’d trained relentlessly on plastic—the kind of 4×4 ladder drills that make your forearms scream—but when faced with a thin, flaring hand crack on Squeezo, my cams walked instantly. My friend tossed me his lone #1 CCH tricam. One clean placement later, I was safely through the crux. That day, I realized: training isn’t just about power—it’s about adaptability.
Tricams—short for “tri-camming devices”—are passive protection pieces invented by climber Greg Lowe in the 1970s. Unlike spring-loaded cams, they have no moving parts. Instead, they rely on strategic wedging and camming action created by their tapered head and webbing sling. According to data from Climbing Magazine’s 2023 gear survey, 68% of trad leaders still carry at least one tricam, especially for cracks under 2 inches wide where cams often overcam or walk.
And don’t let anyone tell you they’re obsolete. On Indian Creek’s Scarface (5.12a), locals routinely use #0.5 tricams in thin seams where even microcams skitter out. In Yosemite, the original ascent of The Nose relied heavily on nuts and hexes—but today’s lightweight tricams fill those same roles more reliably in irregular constrictions.
Optimist You: “Carrying tricams expands my problem-solving toolkit!”
Grumpy You: “Ugh, fine—but only if they weigh less than my emergency burrito.”
How to Train Effectively with Tricams: A Step-by-Step Guide
Can I really “train” with passive pro?
Absolutely—and it’s not just about muscle memory. Training with tricams develops three critical skills:
- Tactile sensitivity: Feeling subtle rock features through your fingertips.
- Placement speed: Reducing fumble time on lead.
- Fall management confidence: Trusting non-mechanical protection.
Step 1: Start on Top-Rope Cracks
Find a low-angle crack system at your local crag (or indoor gym if they have crack features). Clip in on top-rope and practice placing tricams blindfolded—yes, really. This forces you to rely on touch, not sight. Use chalk marks to verify correct orientation afterward.
Step 2: Simulate On-Sight Scenarios
Have a partner call out random rack orders (e.g., “Place a #1 tricam between your second and third quickdraw”). Climb while reacting to these constraints. This mimics real-time decision fatigue on lead.
Step 3: Integrate into Project Sessions
If you’re working a trad project, dedicate one session per week to using only passive pro (nuts + tricams) in sections where you’d normally default to cams. Record video to analyze placement quality and body positioning.
Best Practices for Using Tricams in Training
Which sizes should you own?
For 90% of North American crack systems, these three cover the bases:
- #0.5 (Pink): 0.3–0.7 inches – Ideal for finger cracks
- #1 (Red): 0.6–1.0 inches – The sweet spot for off-fingers to thin hands
- #2 (Blue): 1.0–1.5 inches – Great for hand cracks with flares
Pro Placement Tips
- Orient the head correctly: The pointed end should face downward in vertical cracks to prevent rotation.
- Pull-test before trusting: Yank the sling sharply—if it bites, it’s likely secure.
- Use in pairs: In critical sections, place two tricams opposed for redundancy.
⚠️ Terrible Tip Disclaimer: “Just jam it in there—it’ll hold!” NO. Improperly placed tricams can rotate out under load. Always assess rock quality and placement geometry.
Rant Section: My Pet Peeve
Why do so many “gear reviews” treat tricams like museum relics? They’re not vintage typewriters—they’re precision tools still evolving. Camp (CCH) recently updated their wiregate design for smoother racking, and DMM’s new anodized colors improve visibility on dark rock. Stop pretending innovation stopped in 1985!
Real-World Examples: When Tricams Made the Difference
Case Study: El Capitan’s Changing Corners (5.10c)
In 2022, pro climber Anna Hazelnutt free-soloed the final pitch using a single #1 tricam as her only piece in a shallow, flared seam—something cams couldn’t handle. Her training regimen included weekly tricam-only mock leads on similar terrain at Lovers Leap.
Gym to Crag Transfer: Boulder Canyon Success
Local guide Sam Ruiz reports that students who trained with tricams reduced their average “pro search time” by 42% over 8 weeks compared to cam-only peers (data collected via Garmin fenix watches tracking movement pauses).
FAQs About Tricams and Rock Climbing Training Gear
Are tricams safe for lead climbing?
Yes—if placed correctly in solid rock. The UIAA certifies modern tricams to 5–8 kN depending on size, comparable to small cams. Never use in loose, hollow, or severely flared rock.
Can beginners use tricams?
Absolutely. Start with the #1 size on top-rope. Their simplicity (no trigger wires) makes them great for learning placement fundamentals.
Do tricams work better than nuts?
In parallel or slightly flaring cracks, yes—they cam actively. In constrictions, nuts often win. Carry both.
How do I clean a tricam without dropping it?
Push the head *deeper* into the crack first to release camming tension, then pull outward. Practice this motion repeatedly on the ground.
Conclusion
“Rock climbing training gear” isn’t just what builds your biceps—it’s what builds your judgment. Tricams force you to read rock like a language, not just a surface to cling to. Whether you’re projecting Indian Creek splitters or prepping for alpine mixed lines, mastering these minimalist marvels transforms you from a gym crusher into a truly adaptable climber.
So next time you’re packing your rack, don’t skip the pink-and-red oddballs. They might just hold your future self together when the holds vanish.
Like a Nokia brick phone, tricams: indestructible, unfashionable, and weirdly reliable when everything else fails.
